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HOW TO BUY AND CARE FOR TURQUOISE JEWELRY

You probably thought that the name of the stone, “turquoise” comes from its color.  If so, you’ll be surprised to find out that the word "turquoise" actually means "Turkish stone" because it was brought to Europe on the trade route that went via Turkey.  Turquoise has been a popular gem for so long that the deposits in Sinai were already worked out by 4000 B.C.  Even back then, turquoise was used for jewelry.

Today, much of the turquoise we use in North American comes from either the USA or China.  Some authorities believe that the best turquoise comes from north east Iran, (called Persian turquoise) while others feel that the best comes from the Sleeping Beauty Mine in Arizona.   The color of Sleeping Beauty turquoise – a pale robin’s egg blue – is sometimes referred to as “Persian color” and because of its color and clarity, is a favorite.

Turquoise comes in three colors and several  types of clarity.  You will find natural turquoise in sky blue, blue-green and apple green.  Most turquoise has markings called “turquoise matrix”.  The matrix can be brown, dark gray or black and can be spider-web like, lumpy, etc.  Very little turquoise can be found without matrix.  Sleeping Beauty is one of these which usually has no matrix.  Normally, the more clear the stone and the less matrix, the more expensive it is although prices do vary, of course.

Since most turquoise in its natural state is porous, fragile and highly susceptible to color-change from light, oils, cosmetics, perspiration, water and detergents, it’s a good idea when you are buying turquoise to ask if your turquoise is natural, stabilized, re-constituted, synthetic, compressed, fracture-sealed and/or enhanced. 

Natural means that it has not been altered from its natural state in any way (other than cutting it into various shapes). 

Stabilized means that resin, acrylic or epoxy has been used to harden the stone and darken the color.  Stabilized stone maintains its color and is therefore an important point to consider if you are matching it with clothing or other jewelry, or if you just simply like the color.

Re-constituted means that bits and pieces of the natural stone have been crushed and pressed  together with paste so they appear to be a whole stone.  Re-constituted stone is more economical than other turquoise and often looks just as good.

Synthetic/Lab grown stones are man-made but the stones have the same chemical composition and physical characteristics of the natural stone.  These are usually less expensive than the natural stone.

Compressed turquoise has been hardened by the use of pressure.

Fracture-sealed turquoise has been treated with a sealer which hardens the matrix in the turquoise.

Enhanced means that the stone has been treated electrochemically to enhance the color and harden the stone.  These stones won’t change color over time.

Because the color in natural turquoise is so easily changed, you should take off  turquoise jewelry when you are swimming, bathing or washing dishes.  If you wear make-up, be careful of getting it on your turquoise.  At 482 degrees F (250 C), sky blue changes to a dull green, so if you work anywhere where you may be exposed to this degree of heat, don’t wear your turquoise to work.  Leaving your jewelry in the hot sun for extended periods of time can also affect the color due to the long periods of bright light.

Because of all this, you must take certain precautions when cleaning your turquoise jewelry.  Normally, I clean my silver with toothpaste, which is a wonderful cleaner for silver.  However, toothpaste can damage turquoise quite a bit so if you get a soft cotton polishing cloth, available from nearly any jewelry supplier such as those I’ve used as references here, you can clean your silver with minimal damage to the turquoise.  Try to touch the turquoise as little as possible and if it needs a bit of polishing, use a clean soft cotton cloth.  The polishing cloths are treated with chemicals so you need to use an untreated cloth for the turquoise itself.  There are also other cleaners around.  I found a good one called Jewelry and Gemstone Cleaner, Made in USA.  Unfortunately, the jar has no brand name or any other identifying feature.  It’s a green liquid in a jar with a little brush in a “basket” inside.  It works very well with no damage to any gems.  I’ve also seen recommendations for a cleaner called MAAS but haven’t tried it myself.

Despite all these cautions, turquoise is still one of the most popular and beautiful semi-precious stones.  With proper care, you can easily keep yours looking beautiful for a lifetime.  Do enjoy!!

Linda Sereda
Jewelry Designer  

References:

Gemstones of the World, Walter Schumann

Thunderbird Supply Company Jewelry Source Catalog 2006

Indian Jewelers Supply Co., Materials Catalog, Volume 3, 2005-2007

Fire Mountain Gems and Beads Gemstone and Precious Metals Catalog 2006-2007